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Welcome to Listen to your Skin by Moon and Skin, the podcast where science meets nature to celebrate the story of your skin.
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Your skin is a living canvas, ever evolving, deeply personal and uniquely yours.
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Each week, we'll dive into the science of healthy skin, share empowering stories and uncover transformative self-care rituals.
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We're here to help you embrace every phase of your journey with confidence and care.
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Hi everyone, Welcome to this week's episode of Listen to your Skin by Moon and Skin confidence and care.
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Hi everyone, welcome to this week's episode of Listen to your Skin by Moon and Skin, and I'm your host, Dr Jen Haley.
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This week, I have the pleasure of welcoming Giselle Jamoa to the show.
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Hi Giselle.
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Hi, Giselle's a licensed esthetician and a professional makeup artist with over a decade of experience in the beauty industry.
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Beginning in her career as a makeup artist in 2013, she developed a passion for enhancing natural beauty and helping clients feel confident in their skin, and, more recently, Giselle expanded her expertise by becoming a licensed esthetician specializing in customized skincare treatments.
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With a commitment to continuous learning, Giselle stays up to date on the latest techniques and innovations to provide her clients with the best possible care.
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Her goal is to create a relaxing, results-driven experience that empowers each individual to look and feel their best and it shows Thanks for being here, Giselle.
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Of course.
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Thanks for having me.
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Yeah, so that's a neat combination.
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I've talked before to makeup artists and I've talked to many estheticians, and I love that you've meshed the two of them together, in particular because with your work as an esthetician, you're we know this is a process of transforming somebody's skin.
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It takes time for someone to improve their skin texture, their tone, help with some brown spots, some other blemish issues, and in the meantime, you can help them with makeup application.
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And, like on that note, can you dive a little bit deeper on the importance of skincare and how it relates to makeup applications, something I know very little about?
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Yes, of course.
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So I am a big believer in your makeup only looks as good as how you take care of your skin.
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A lot of times I will have a client in my chair and I'm so excited to do their glam and the great thing about that is that I could help them figure out ways so that their next appointment, when they come in for that, they are either exfoliated a little bit better or they can like dermaplane beforehand, or we can schedule them a consultation so we can do a skin analysis to see what they really need, so that in the future when they are coming in for their makeup appointments, they're not worried about either fine lines or wrinkles or blemishes, maybe a little bit of hyperpigmentation or their rosacea.
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So all of these really intertwine really tremendously when you're doing your makeup.
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So I think it's really important that you know clients understand that makeup is only going to sit on top of the skin, but what's happening underneath is actually more important.
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Okay, that's great.
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So there's so many procedures you just mentioned which I want to dive a little bit deeper into.
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As far as skin care itself, what are the do's and don'ts of what people should or shouldn't apply to make their makeup more effective?
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Great question.
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I love when people ask me this because it's so important to prep your skin before you come in and get your makeup done.
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So I always like to say that if you are going to get a facial before you have a big event, that you should be getting your facial at least a week before anywhere from seven to 10 days before your event, just so your skin is a little bit more fresh.
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And if you do purge which I don't know if I'm going to tell the audience here purging is when you break out a little bit after a facial.
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It's really normal.
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It's just because your skin is more exposed and a little bit more sensitive.
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So you want time for your skin to heal before you come in for your makeup appointment.
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But the biggest thing that I always tell my clients is really just to make sure that your skin is exfoliated and moisturized and protected before you come into your appointment.
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So exfoliator, whether it's physical or chemical and then moisturizing your skin as well as protecting it with a good SPF.
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That's not going to make your makeup pill.
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Okay, that's great, that's really great and that's consistent with the advice I've heard before from previous makeup artists, and I love consistency because you know there's truth in it when you have people that are experienced, with decades of experience, like yourself, saying the same thing again and again.
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I want to go back to purging, because there's a lot of people that will use that word and I don't know if they quite understand what's going on.
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So, the way that I look at it as a dermatologist, I always want to understand, like what's the mechanism of action?
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What's going on beneath the surface?
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What's going on beneath the surface?
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And when you look at like someone's skin who's in their 20s or 30s, it takes about six weeks to get from the bottom layer to the top layer of the skin, whereas someone like me in their 50s, it might take more, like eight to 12 weeks.
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Our stem cells get a little lazy and things don't turn over as quickly, and most people that have blemishes, they normally will take about six to eight weeks to go from the bottom layer to the top layer.
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So what I feel is going on with this purging is that when you see an esthetician an esthetician that is medical, that's results-driven they're doing maybe more aggressive treatments that are helping those deep pimples that were six to eight weeks old kind of surface and come to a head a little bit quicker, those deep pimples that were six to eight weeks old kind of surface and come to a head a little bit quicker.
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And that's what we call purge, with the hopes that the next cycle of skin is clear.
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Is that how you see it?
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That's exactly how I see it, I do believe.
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When people eat a little piece of chocolate and then they wake up the next morning and they're like, oh my God, I broke out because I ate chocolate.
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No, you had that brewing and cooking underneath your skin for some time.
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But maybe what happened when you had a little bit more sugar is that it helped pro not prolong, I guess, but it helped activate that blemish to come up from underneath the skin.
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So I totally agree with that statement.
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Right, yeah, so what you're doing in the office is you're helping all of that to surface more quickly, and it's important that people do the right things at home to make the next layer of skin clear.
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So, to your point, it's not really a chocolate, everyone, if you're listening, it's the sugar.
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So a dark chocolate or a cacao, not so much, but we now know that sugar and dairy, exactly yes, should look for depending on what their needs are of their skin, because I think that word facial is thrown around a lot and it can mean very different things yeah, I agree.
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I think that it's skincare is not a one-size-fits-all by any means and everybody's and everybody's experience is going to differ from client to client.
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I think it really starts with coming in and doing a skin analysis to see what procedure or what facial, I guess, is going to fit your needs best.
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What is a skin analysis?
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A skin analysis is pretty much when you come in and you take a closer look at the client's skin under either like a mag lamp, which is like a magnifying glass that has a little lamp so you can see the skin a little bit more clearly or just, you know, I love using my hands.
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Obviously, sanitation is so important, so my hands are clean or I am wearing gloves before I touch anybody's skin.
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But I do like to feel the skin to see if there's anything underneath, because, for example, my skin I you won't really be able to see a lot on the surface, but when I touch my own skin, I could feel like congestion underneath the surface, and so that's going to help me identify.
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Okay, is this, you know?
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Is this a pimple or is it a blackhead?
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Is it congestion?
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Is it dry skin?
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Is it cystic acne?
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What's happening underneath the surface?
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So what I like to do in my skin analysis is really take my time, feel what's on the skin, as well as using a magnifying lamp, to see if I can see anything that maybe my naked eye couldn't catch so you're able to see if someone has congestion is prone to acne, if they're sensitive and more inflamed, and that will direct your therapy or your treatment protocol.
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Absolutely, and I'm also really big into intake forms.
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I cannot stress this enough.
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Having a client fill out an intake form is so important because it really helps me identify or see little things that could, you know, trigger a breakout.
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Sleep is really important when it comes to your skin.
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Water hydration, external environmental causes these things are so important and with an intake form it essentially helps me figure out exactly what the client is doing without having to have a 30 minute consultation.
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They fill it out I over, I look it over and then I can kind of see okay, maybe you're not drinking enough water, you're a little bit more dehydrated, and you know that can help me identify is their skin dehydrated or is it dry?
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You know, is it lacking water or is it lacking oil?
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So these things really do help and that is a part of the skin analysis as well.
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Right, it's like you can be in the office and do the perfect procedure on them, and if they're not doing things at home that are supporting your procedure, it's almost wasted.
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So can we pivot a little bit into at-home skin care?
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Yeah, tell me what your thoughts are on at-home skincare.
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Oh, it's so important.
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It's so important.
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I compare skincare at-home skincare and seeing your esthetician to the diet and exercise 80-20 rule.
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It is so important 20% of the results that you're going to see in your diet and exercise, that comes from your exercise and 80% of it is from your dieting.
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I compare it the same way 20% of the time your results are going to be driven by your esthetician and what you're doing in the treatment room.
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80% of it is how you maintain it and take care of it at home.
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I cannot stress this enough.
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You don't have to have a 13 step skincare routine, but you need to have something that works for you, because if you're not taking care of your skin at home, that 20% is not going to make much of a difference and I would hate my clients to waste their time and their money on something that they could easily be doing at home.
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I love that.
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I love that analogy.
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I've always thought of it as like brushing your teeth, so you can go to your esthetician, ie like get your teeth clean every three months or so Although with the rate of how how your skin turns over, it may need to be more frequently or less frequently than that but you're still going to brush your teeth at home.
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So if you don't brush your teeth at home, then you're just putting the burden on the dental hygienist to clean your teeth and then it.
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You know, it looked good for a week or so.
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Just sort of like if somebody does a treatment with you or goes to their dermatologist, they'll look good for a short-lived period of time, but if they're not doing the basics at home, then they're not going to establish a long-term result.
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So what are some of the basic skin care that you recommend universally for people or for those with?
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Let's just say, what's one of the biggest issues that you see with people actually?
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Is it acne, is it oil or is it hyperpigmentation?
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I would say a lot of it is like aging, a lot of it is aging and in what way?
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aging fine lines, wrinkles, dehydrated skin, dry skin.
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I mean, I know that a lot of people are really into tretinoin right now and they're like heavily like everybody's on this, like tretinoin kick, and I love that and I think it's great, but do I think it needs to be, you know, maybe that strong?
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No, I think for people who are just starting off on their skincare journey that do want to target some anti-aging I don't want to say issues, but like concerns that they may have I definitely recommend, like having a really good nighttime routine and, like I said, it doesn't.
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It's not a one size fits all and it's definitely doesn't have to be like a 15 nighttime routine.
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And, like I said, it doesn't it's not a one size fits all and it's definitely doesn't have to be like a 15 step routine.
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But if you have really good basics, a good retinol and a good moisturizer for nighttime, you don't want to be like dripping in your skincare this whole glazed donut trend that I'm seeing for people's skin.
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I don't know that it really is going to give you the results you need, because I don't see it really going into the skin.
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You know the molecules are not small enough to penetrate past the first layer of the skin.
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So does it really?
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I don't know.
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You know that's just how I see it.
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I agree, I agree.
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I think these are great questions because we know our skin is basically separating us from the outside world, so it's meant not to allow things to penetrate.
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And then the other thing we don't know about skincare is we.
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We might know that a retinol works well.
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We might know that a vitamin C can work as an antioxidant to lighten.
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We don't necessarily know how things work together.
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So there's science behind individual molecules.
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There's not a ton of science showing that 12 layers don't actually counter each other and make things ineffective.
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So I always think of okay.
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There's this concept called hormesis.
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It's like a little bit of injury causes the body to become stronger.
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So if you work out at the gym, you get stronger muscles.
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If you do microneedling, you get more collagen.
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If you are harsh with anything, you get a scar, you break your back, you know.
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So a little bit of injury can make it stronger.
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Too much can cause that.
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And I always wonder, like whether it's in the longevity world or the skincare world are.
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Some people do almost too many things and counter the benefits of just doing a little bit.
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And then I also think that skincare should be accessible for everyone, despite your background or your socioeconomic status.
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So I think it's really important for everyone to realize they're going to get some benefit, even if they just use a vitamin C or a retinol.
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And for those of you like listening about retinol, it's not sexy, it's not in TikTok all the time, because it's been around since the 1970s and it's the most scientifically proven molecule to help reverse sun damage, to help stimulate collagen, even out skin tone.
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It just is not like the biggest newest thing, but it's the most scientifically backed.
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So how do you have people initiate a retinol like?
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Break down the details of how you can get someone to tolerate it without experiencing a lot of dryness or redness that we sometimes will see for sure I love that question because it is so important to not just start slapping on retinol every night.
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Like you said, perfect example microneedling right.
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We're damaging the skin just a little bit enough to help the skin get stronger and to stimulate collagen, which then in turn helps improve the elasticity in the skin, helps you look more youthful and fresh, and it's great.
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In the skin helps you look more youthful and fresh, and it's great.
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But with retinol, what's important to know about it is too much, too soon is not good.
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So I always like to tell my clients if they are interested in starting a retinol to start with, like a really gentle retinol.
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I have a couple that I recommend, but nothing that I'm really like 100% in love with just yet.
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Myself, I'm still on the hunt myself as safe as possible with their skin.
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So once a week and then the week after, I recommend twice a week and then I bump it up to every other day and then eventually, at some point they can, if they want, to start wearing it every night, and that's just kind of preference if your skin can handle it.
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Yeah, I love that.
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I'm very similar in my recommendations.
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So I recommend everything to the face, neck and chest as one unit.
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I think a lot of times people forget the neck and the chest.
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But with retinol, if it's caught in the creases like around the nose or around the mouth or in the fold of the neck when you sleep at night, it can get really irritating and cause loosening of the top, the corneocytes and the top layer a little too quickly and become irritating.
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We used to think that using retinol with a moisturizer made it less effective and now we find that that is not true and it makes it more well tolerated.
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And I can have people either use a sandwich technique where they use a moisturizer first and then the retinol and then moisturizer again if they're really prone to irritation, or just use the moisturizer afterwards.
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And to your point, it's about going slow and starting low.
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So start low, go slow.
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We're stimulating collagen which takes three to six months to form and we're in this for the long game, like we are in this for the long.
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oh yeah, and consistency is Absolutely.
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When it comes to retinol, you have to be consistent with it to see the results of it.
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I have been doing Botox since I was 23 or 24.
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But and Botox is great, you know we love Botox but you can't just do it on, you can't just do Botox by itself.
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You know you have to, you have to have a little cocktail of things.
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You know, that's what I like to call it a cocktail.
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I call it building a house right Like my hammer alone cannot build the whole house.
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So like, while Botox works on dynamic muscle movement, we're not going to use it on areas of the face where we need to move the muscles right.
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Maybe the frown lines, like who really wants a frown face?
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right.
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We're okay without that, but we do want micro expressions.
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So you know, I'm actually happy to see you and I could raise my brows but like for hyperpigmentation or for, you know, uneven skin tone or texture or reversing sun damage, retinol works so well.
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It's really undeniable.
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There's so many other things out there that try to compete and they've never taken the retinol spot.
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So we'll see.
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There's some science with liposomal technology.
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That's kind of exciting, because the liposomal technology can get through the bilipid membrane without causing so much irritation to the epidermis.
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We also need to see that the results are there as well.
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So there's a lot of science that's starting to work in our favor, which is great, and it's really exciting too, right?
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Technology keeps advancing and we're so excited to see the future of skincare because it just I don't know, I think it keeps getting better and better, in my opinion, I think sky's the limit, absolutely, absolutely.
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There's a conference I'm going to have you at.
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I'm going to tell you about it offline that I think you should attend.
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You'll love it.
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About the science of skincare yeah and um, okay, so let's go back to uh, facials and esthetician.
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So people are using skincare at home.
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How often should be they be seeing their esthetician?
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listen, I know that some people may agree and disagree with me, but because I do believe it's not a one-size-fits-all, generally I would love to see my clients every four to six weeks.
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However, if you are keeping up with your skincare at home and you're doing great and there aren't many skin concerns that you have, for you to be motivated to come into the salon, I recommend every eight to 12 weeks, depending on the client, but generally four to six weeks.
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Okay.
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So maybe if they have a concern that they're trying to be aggressively treating and improving, it would be more of a four to six week thing.
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Is there any benefit to coming sooner than every four weeks?
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Or you really need to let things sort of settle in and simmer and take effect, because we live in a very impatient society.
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So is there too much?
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There is too much.
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I don't recommend coming in sooner than four weeks.
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You can technically come in every two weeks, but you know, at that point it's like are you again?
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You know it's like you're relying on your hygienist essentially to clean your teeth for you, like why?
00:21:13.304 --> 00:21:14.646
You know why?
00:21:14.646 --> 00:21:15.548
Why would you want to?
00:21:15.548 --> 00:21:15.769
You're?
00:21:15.769 --> 00:21:21.784
I am for the people, right, like it's a business and I understand that completely and this is my living.
00:21:21.784 --> 00:21:25.627
But I also don't want to be taking advantage of my clients.
00:21:25.627 --> 00:21:36.258
I feel like I really strive to be honest with my clients and I wouldn't want my client coming in every two weeks just for them to have the same results as if they were to come in every four weeks.
00:21:36.258 --> 00:21:40.905
I would send you home with products and I would tell you hey, keep up with this at home.
00:21:40.905 --> 00:21:41.847
You're doing amazing.
00:21:41.847 --> 00:21:46.453
As much as I love you and I'd love to see you, I don't think it's necessary.
00:21:47.154 --> 00:21:48.096
Okay, so that's great.
00:21:48.096 --> 00:22:05.269
So if you're listening and there's something that you want to aim to improve, whether it's acne pigmentation, some blemishes, some uneven skin tone, you just want to boost every four to six weeks If you feel like you're on cruise control more towards the every two to three months.
00:22:05.590 --> 00:22:05.892
Yeah.
00:22:06.152 --> 00:22:07.314
Got it Absolutely.
00:22:07.314 --> 00:22:11.285
Now you're on a desert island, you don't have an esthetician.
00:22:11.285 --> 00:22:13.787
You get to bring one product.
00:22:13.787 --> 00:22:15.787
What would that product be?
00:22:17.540 --> 00:22:18.968
So standard and generic.
00:22:20.400 --> 00:22:21.300
I know what you're going to say.
00:22:21.300 --> 00:22:22.082
Well, maybe I don't.
00:22:22.722 --> 00:22:23.022
SPF, spf.
00:22:23.022 --> 00:22:24.003
I know what you're going to say.
00:22:24.003 --> 00:22:29.509
Well, maybe I don't SPF SPF If you have a good SPF, like you're, solid.
00:22:29.509 --> 00:22:31.712
Sun damage is so horrible.
00:22:31.712 --> 00:22:38.403
I've seen what it does to people's skin it ages you, it dehydrates you, it takes a lot of.
00:22:38.403 --> 00:22:43.733
You know, sun damage can even affect your like oil, the oils in your skin.
00:22:43.733 --> 00:22:47.162
It's yeah, spf, all the spf, all the way all the way right.
00:22:47.221 --> 00:23:01.051
It's so interesting because people will often get sun because they think it helps with acne, but it actually breaks down the elastic tissue and it makes the the pores actually look bigger over time so maybe some short-term gain, but really long-term, like horrible pain.
00:23:01.152 --> 00:23:10.375
so oh yeah, I know it's such a not sexy answer, but it's really the truth, because you see it in San Diego, I see it in Arizona and I've lived in Hawaii.
00:23:10.375 --> 00:23:17.532
I've even lived in, like, the Rocky mountains, and the sun damage causes more problems with your skin than anything else.
00:23:17.532 --> 00:23:28.125
So before you spend money on a high tech, you know, dna repair enzyme or even a retinol, you have to avoid the sun because it breaks down collagen and causes all the things we don't want.
00:23:28.786 --> 00:23:29.467
Absolutely.
00:23:29.467 --> 00:23:32.653
I am like the biggest believer in SPF.
00:23:32.653 --> 00:23:35.645
Is like not a miracle product.
00:23:35.645 --> 00:23:42.728
I don't think any one product is a miracle product, but I do think SPF is is close, is close.
00:23:42.928 --> 00:23:45.273
I know, at least for the high real estate areas.
00:23:45.273 --> 00:23:59.518
So I'm a big fan of getting broad surface areas of the body exposed a few times a week, depending on where you live and your skin type, although I do not believe in having my face, my neck and my chest especially at the age of 53, exposed to the sun.
00:23:59.518 --> 00:24:04.943
Yeah, because I do not want the wrinkles and the cancer and all the other things that I get Absolutely Even your hands.
00:24:05.163 --> 00:24:09.768
Oh, spf on my hands every morning, like whatever is left on my face.
00:24:09.768 --> 00:24:13.510
I rub it into my hands and you know you can even get sun exposure.
00:24:13.510 --> 00:24:18.275
Excuse me, you can even get sun exposure from your windshield when you're driving.
00:24:18.275 --> 00:24:20.676
You know your hand is on the steering wheel and you're driving.
00:24:20.676 --> 00:24:27.861
You get sun exposure from that too.
00:24:27.861 --> 00:24:29.101
And the I've heard, which I find myself I've noticed as well.
00:24:29.101 --> 00:24:39.637
Maybe I'm a little bit more hyper aware, but now I'm noticing that that how you can tell somebody's age is like really in the folds of their necks and in their hands.
00:24:39.637 --> 00:24:45.705
Because, like we were talking about with Botox, you know it only relaxes the muscles, but like it.
00:24:45.705 --> 00:24:46.807
What about the folds?
00:24:46.807 --> 00:24:47.670
What about the hands?
00:24:47.670 --> 00:24:48.512
What you know.
00:24:48.512 --> 00:24:52.066
So, protecting the hands, the neck, the chest super important.
00:24:52.465 --> 00:24:55.249
Yeah, I mean to your point about the sun damage.
00:24:55.249 --> 00:24:57.730
So people will say I don't get sun there.
00:24:57.730 --> 00:25:00.913
You know, when I see them for an examination I don't get sun there.