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Welcome to Listen to your Skin by Moon Skin, the podcast where science meets nature to celebrate the story of your skin.
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Your skin is a living canvas, ever evolving, deeply personal and uniquely yours.
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Each week, we'll dive into the science of healthy skin, share empowering stories and uncover transformative self-care rituals.
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We're here to help you embrace every phase of your journey with confidence and care.
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Hi everyone, welcome to this week's episode of Listen to your Skin by Moon Skin, and I'm your host and board-certified dermatologist, dr Jen Haley.
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And this week on the show, I have an aesthetic skincare expert joining us, tatiana Treisman Welcome.
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She's a licensed clinical esthetician, a certified laser technician and a certified laser safety officer, with a deep passion for customized skincare solutions.
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Her journey started in Ukraine, where she honed her craft by creating personalized skincare products, and that dedication to tailored care has been the foundation of her career.
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Tailored care has been the foundation of her career.
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Tatiana is constantly exploring advanced techniques in lifting, sculpting and fascia release, always striving for the best results for her clients.
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For her, aesthetics isn't just a profession, it's a passion, where client satisfaction and visible transformations are the ultimate rewards.
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Tatiana, welcome to the show, thank you.
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Thank you for having me.
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Yeah, so you have a really, really unique background.
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Can you share how you got started in the aesthetic industry?
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I started when I was in my late teens I think I was 19 in Ukraine, in Ukraine Back then.
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I hope things changed now, but when I was working I had to make my own skin care creams, lotions, cleansing milks and all of it, because we did not have a bag bar.
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There was nothing to buy, it was all us making it every day, actually every day.
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I would bring to work jars, big jars, and it would be empty by the time I go home.
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So I started and I worked a couple of years in Ukraine and I moved to United States.
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San Francisco was my first stop.
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I went to beauty school and I graduated and then my life turned a little bit different way, for diversion.
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For some time my daughter was was young and I was divorcing my first husband.
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So being an esthetician takes a little bit time to start making money, you know, get on your feet two years at least.
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I didn't have two years.
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So I had to do something very um, something different.
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And I was in Silicon Valley and that time dot com boom was booming and I decided, okay, I'm gonna switch to this field for now.
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So I went into, I took some classes and I went to software development and I was comfortable, very comfortable, doing that, getting a nice paycheck.
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My skincare was just me at that time, still loved it.
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I was still making some lotions just for my friends who had making some lotions just for my friends who had, you know, my friend's husband.
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He has irritation after he was shaving, so I would make something for him.
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Or my other friend's daughter had acne, so I would make something for her.
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Was my little, you know, help you here, help you there.
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And for me, I think you know, know, staying in touch with what I love to do.
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And, um, I was doing that until, um, well, I'm still in software and I decided I'm going to do this because I love it and that brings me, it brings me satisfaction, because I guess when we work, you know when we do something, and if it stops fulfilling you inside, my computer journey is at that point right now when I don't feel, I don't feel satisfaction.
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It's, it's, it's boring, it's not.
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Uh, it's changed a lot too and I am not finding myself, I'm not seeing myself doing this for longer it's so interesting, as I'm watching you talk about your journey right when I hear you talk about how you almost are an apothecary and you're creating these formulations that are so personalized for friends, for family, for yourself.
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You have this like aura glow around you right and I think your journey is so beautiful because most of us in our lives, we sometimes will have to do something that maybe isn't our passion in order for our passion to grow.
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And I also feel that when you're creating something from scratch, like you have, there is this understanding about, like the mechanism of how things work, rather than just grabbing something off the shelf because somebody told you that it works for A, b or C, can you like, how do you even begin?
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Like, how, how do you even formulate these custom formulations?
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Like what's the what's the mechanism of action or the thought process behind the art of that, because I can clearly see you're super creative and artistic.
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the art of that because I can clearly see you're super creative and artistic.
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So I started with recipes, recipes that I bring with me from Ukraine, yeah, and then here I can modify these recipes depending on, first of all, I have resources here more than I had there.
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You know, we have Amazon and we have internet and I would do research.
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So I have a friend of mine.
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She has these concerns, so I would look for what will help better into my recipe, what can I add, what I can substitute, how can I make it work so she gets better results, so it will work better for her, what kind of actives I can use.
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And I would start looking for where I can find it and I go for best ingredients that I can put my hands on.
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So, for example, my oils I was getting from Canada, from the mountains, when the flowers are growing.
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They were making oils from that.
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So it's a very individual, it's very thought process, but it starts from my recipes that I brought with me from Ukraine.
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That's so beautiful.
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I feel like the best secrets come from nature overall and they are transferred down and down to the generations, but eventually we have to try to find something that works for most people, like idealistically, yes, creating a bespoke plan for everyone is is the best.
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So, as you're talking about the flowers from the mountains, I'm thinking of hormesis.
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Do you do you about the flowers from the mountains?
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I'm thinking of hormesis.
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Do you do you know the hormetic effect, like what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.
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So that's how microneedling comes into play, because we make small little uh holes in someone's skin and in response, it forms thicker collagen, right, and too much trauma causes a scar, right.
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We don't want that.
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And flowers that grow in harsh environments, like the mountains, where there's a paucity of nutrients and the weather is hard, they have typically more benefits, like Himalayan tartary.
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Buckwheat has, like a lot of nutritional properties.
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So it's really interesting that you've been able to find these things.
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So, when you're looking at a client, okay, let's take a step back.
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If you're thinking about, like most people's skin, someone who's in their thirties, forties and even fifties, like what's a basic skincare regimen that you start people on outside of your office, and then I want to talk about your special facials, because you know, um I in my mind and um in my I guess experience.
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What I know is sometimes, or most of the times, less is more.
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I don't like uh, honestly I don't like when people have, or somebody tells them you have, eight steps routine first.
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First, nobody's going to do it, they're just not going to do it because it takes time and it's too much.
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It's too much for the skin.
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So I always go for essentials, what our skin needs and our skin really needs essentials to stay healthy, to be more resilient, to fight free radicals.
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So I would go for well cleanse.
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Obviously it's a very big part.
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You have to find the right cleanser that will not strip the oils, that will not make you dry something but will take makeup off so your skin is clean and ready for the next step.
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And then toner, which will work on your pH of the skin to prep for the next step, and serum and cream Very easy.
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Everyone needs vitamin A, everyone needs vitamin C, everyone needs antioxidants.
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So these three things are the essentials, and I start everyone on just basic, essential skin care.
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And what's also very important is consistency.
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Do it every day, morning and night, to see the results and when skin is healthy.
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When we get there, when we get to the healthy skin, then I can start suggesting okay, now let's do exfoliation, let's add more vitamin A or more vitamin C, let's introduce peptides slowly.
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I think it's the saying you know, when you walk slower, you get farther, and I really believe in that.
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That is.
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I resonate with that 100%.
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I couldn't agree more with you.
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Do you think there is anyone that doesn't need toner or shouldn't use toner?
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I think, for example, hydrating toners, everyone can use.
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So it's more about finding the right toner.
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Finding the right toner yes.
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For example, I have different toners in my studio that I'm working with and somebody who would, I suggest, use this toner to combat their acne.
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I would not use it on someone who is who wants to do some, you know, anti-aging or yeah, so he has different toners.
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Some toners are exfoliating toners and that would I would use for a different clientele, but hydrating toners everyone can use use, especially here in Arizona.
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We're so dry here.
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Okay, so typical morning cleanse tone vitamin C hydration.
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Yeah, vitamin A, vitamin C.
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I'm saying vitamin A.
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I work with vitamin A.
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It comes, as you know different forms, you know different concentrations, so start with something very light.
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You can do it morning and sunscreen.
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Sunscreen is the must at the end in the morning, yeah, okay.
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And what do you have people look for with sunscreen?
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Mostly not to have a white cast on their skin, because nobody wants to look like a ghost and they're not going to use it.
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Let's be honest here like no one's going to use it if they don't like the feel of it, the cosmetic elegance exactly and, um you know, transparent that gives the glow and protection.
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protection is the biggest thing.
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That's why we put it on to protect our skin from um sun rays and damage that damages our DNA Right, and then we have to repair it.
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Okay.
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So how do you modify their skincare routine at home from their 30s into their 50s as hormones change?
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Yeah, so as hormones change, it affects us on the cellular level, right?
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So it creates more oxidative stress.
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Free radicals are living in us and we need to fix that.
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So I would add antioxidants, more antioxidants, retinol, more vitamin A and antioxidants to give this missing.
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So everything we breathe, we eat, breaks down into molecules in our bodies, and when molecule is missing, the electrons right, electrons has to be in pairs, so if one is missing, it creates free radical.
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So the antioxidants that we eat, you know we apply in our skin.
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They're giving this extra electrons to make a pair.
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So antioxidants is a big, big one that I like to include.
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Also for at home.
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I educate my clients how they can microneedle themselves almost every night before they put their serums on.
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There are microneedling rollers.
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It's not medical grade microneedling.
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It's very light, but it's physically opening the channels on your skin.
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And when you put your skin care on serums, creams, toners, everything gets into the skin where it should be.
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So it opens the channels.
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Otherwise, anything we put in our skin penetrates only four to six percent, so very little.
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And as we get older, we need more.
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We need more antioxidants, we need more vitamin a, because our bodies cannot, um, not as strong as when we're young to deal with true radicals.
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Right, okay.
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So say, someone's in their early forties and they get that hormonal kind of breakouts around the jaw and the chin and they come to see you and they're the global ambassador seeing you in your, in your office.
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They say help, say help me, tatiana, I have a wedding this weekend.
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How do you approach that?
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Or let's give you a couple weeks for the wedding.
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You have a wedding in a couple weeks.
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It's, it's challenging.
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It's challenging.
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I'd like to start prior.
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Um, well, first of all, I would ask her to can you please do your labs and see what's going on and get your hormones in in order to see you know what?
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What's happening?
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I, I really like, I don't like to put band-aids on.
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I like to go to the root cause and fix the root cause, whatever it is teenager, uh, hormonal, you breakouts later in life.
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But if that happens, I would bring down the inflammation.
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I would try to bring down the inflammation.
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So I talk about diet.
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Let's exclude sugar, chocolate, coffee, spicy food.
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Let's get all this, maybe milk, maybe dairy if she has some allergic reaction, or dairy is inflammatory food anyways.
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Yeah, so anti-inflammatory food for sure, deep pore cleansing, cleansing for sure.
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And antioxidants, colostrum antioxidants to bring inflammation down, at least in the meantime, before the wedding.
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What would you do topically to reduce the inflammation?
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Colostrum serums, I would do.
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Antioxidant gel LED helps.
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I have in my possession ultrasound ultrasound with LED.
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It brings down a lot of inflammation.
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Oxygen I have in my possession ultrasound ultrasound with LED.
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It brings down a lot of inflammation oxygen.
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That's amazing.
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I have never used colostrum topical in the skin.
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So with that inflammatory jaw-like acne, I've seen it for over 20 years as a dermatologist and 99% of the time the labs are completely clear.
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Okay, like the labs are normal.
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And it's really interesting because what I think is going on is we have more receptors on the skin.
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So while the levels might be normal, the catcher mitts on the skin to the testosterone and the androgens are higher.
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So like, what are we doing in our environment to cause that kind of wrong reaction, right With endocrine disruptors like plastics and holding the receipts in the phthalates and things like that?
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So I always have people really take a look at what they're doing in their lifestyle to your point and avoiding the sugar and the dairy I'm completely on par with that.
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And then sometimes I'll even add in some supplements, like a spearmint tea Twice a day can help with that.
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So can dim broccoli sprouts, sulfuric flame and saw palmetto sometimes, and also vitex.
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So all of those things can sometimes help.
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But, like you said, we really need to have a full evaluation to find the root cause.
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But in the meantime it's nice to know that you could do some things topically, like the LED and the colostrum to help with the inflammation.
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Yes, yes, and I use it all the time.
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Also, I do have one supplement that I suggest some of my clients to use.
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It works wonders Cystic acne gone.
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So it works on the liver.
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It cleans your liver, but the side effect is your skin.
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It clears the skin and I had teenagers, my friends actually these are my friends' sons who had the worst hormonal acne, with cysts on chest and on the back.
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You know everything that is sweating, especially when they're playing sports, and I did the you know deep work cleansing.
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The pus was flying into the.
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But I love it.
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You know, if somebody says I love it, I'm like, yes, I got it.
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Yeah, I asked them if you can get the supplement.
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You know, go to your doctor because it's not over-the-counter.
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You have to have, I think, a contract with this company that produces it and take it for a couple of months and it clears everything from the inside.
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The cyst will dissolve.
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Do you know what's in the supplement?
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I don't remember, but it's natural.
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Oh, what's the name?
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I bet it's from Fullscript.
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I don't remember.
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The name is Dermaco, derma C-O.
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Okay, I bet it does liver detoxification.
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It's something standard.
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The name of the company is standard.
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So basically it's focusing on liver detoxification because, at the end of the day, if we get out of the way of our body, our body can heal itself.
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So we have to just make room for our body by minimizing the amount of chemicals that come in and allow our body to naturally do everything it wants to do.
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Then we'll have clear skin.
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Yes, yeah, okay.
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So tell me a little bit about your facials.
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Okay, they're very unique.
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My facials are unique.
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I love holistic approach, for when my clients come to me they say I want a facelift.
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Oh, I can't cut your skin and do a facelift.
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I would be a plastic surgeon at that point.
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So I like holistic approach.
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I work with fascia approach.
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I work with I've worked with fascia.
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I work with muscles.
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I work with bone as well.
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So when I uh, for example, if somebody comes to me who doesn't believe in botox or they don't, like you know, injections, they want to stay away from it.
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We start face down because if you think about it, fascia on your forehead starts from your eyebrows, goes all over your the back of your body to your feet.
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Yeah, that's one piece.
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So if this piece and it gets drier as we get older the moisture is gone some it gets stuck to other layers in between.
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So there's a myofascia, there's a fascia, there's more superficial layers.
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It pulls, it pulls and that's how we create wrinkles on our forehead.
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So I start with the back, I release tension from the lower back, I go all the way up, I go all the way on aponeurosis on top of the head, and then we turn face up.
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My approach is different for jowls, for example.
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I do buckle massage, I massage inside the mouth, I release tension in masseters which creates lift in a second.
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What I like to do, I do it on one side and I give my client a mirror.
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Look at yourself and she sees completely two different sides.
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I do believe in natural approach and holistic way of bringing, not back, the youth.
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You know it's you, it's still you.
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Uh, you just release the tension in your muscles because when we're kids wouldn't, wouldn't put tension in our muscles right.
00:23:05.971 --> 00:23:09.691
So and we are lifted and happy and we look differently.
00:23:09.691 --> 00:23:17.327
And then we grow up and we get all these emotions that we store in our bodies and these emotions affect the way we look.
00:23:17.327 --> 00:23:21.914
Face is an emotional part very much.
00:23:21.914 --> 00:23:39.606
We express our emotions in our face and sometimes we don't, but emotion is there and it sits there and it sits in our masseters a lot, because you want to scream, you know, you want to raise your voice, but you don't and it goes there.
00:23:39.606 --> 00:23:47.992
So when I go in and release the tension in the muscles, this looks different.
00:23:48.693 --> 00:23:50.394
Okay, as soon as we're done, I want you to do me.
00:23:50.394 --> 00:23:53.217
Yes, please, oh my gosh, okay.
00:23:53.217 --> 00:23:54.258
So you know it's interesting.
00:23:54.258 --> 00:24:01.564
I don't know why more people don't do this, because everything you're saying makes complete sense.
00:24:01.564 --> 00:24:03.688
It makes complete, logical, amazing sense.
00:24:03.688 --> 00:24:08.174
I always think of the skin as draping us and what's going on underneath.
00:24:08.174 --> 00:24:17.323
I look at it as more as we get older, we lose our bone, we lose our muscle, so it's really important to keep your bone mass and your muscle mass.
00:24:17.323 --> 00:24:19.664
They are a muscle, so it's really important to keep your bone mass and your muscle mass.
00:24:19.664 --> 00:24:29.633
You're also talking about this physiological action component that maybe you're driving to work and you're making these faces and they're sticking around.
00:24:29.633 --> 00:24:32.994
So get to the cause of that through your technique.
00:24:32.994 --> 00:24:35.297
Yes, it's amazing.
00:24:42.579 --> 00:24:42.660
Yes.
00:24:42.660 --> 00:24:43.101
So it is different.
00:24:43.101 --> 00:24:44.743
I do like when I can release the tension in my clients when she comes.
00:24:44.743 --> 00:24:47.589
When person comes to me, they're looking for something.
00:24:47.589 --> 00:24:50.362
They come to me because they want to look better.
00:24:50.362 --> 00:24:57.566
They come to me because they want to feel better and I'm there to give it to them and I love it.
00:24:57.566 --> 00:25:02.146
I love it because I know I can give it to them and I know I can elevate this person.
00:25:02.146 --> 00:25:10.888
I know she's going to walk out and she's going to feel good and she's going to look good and she's going to get this confidence and this is my goal.
00:25:11.900 --> 00:25:18.548
So I do start with, maybe, emotional release and we do some breathing exercises.